Yanks in Blighty - February 8, 2003.

CASTLE FRAMLINGHAM was built in the 1100s by Hugh Bigod, a Norman nobleman with an eye towards power and wealth in East Anglia. His main rival King Henry II built a castle on the Suffolk coast at Orford to challenge Hugh's ambitions in the region. His move proved instrumental in subduing Bigod because Bigod could not attack Henry's castle in Norwich and leave Castle Framlingham vulnerable. Bigod surrendered Framlingham to Henry II, who proceeded to demolish it.

When Richard 'The Lionhearted' ascended the throne, Hugh Bigod's son Roger was confirmed as the Earl of Norfolk. Roger immediately began construction of a new castle at Framlingham which, except for alterations done by the Tudors in the 16th century and the addition of the Poorhouse in the 18th century, remains largely intact. 'Bloody' Queen Mary, first daughter of Henry VIII, was announced Queen of England while staying here with her retinue. It was said all of East Anglia came to wish her well before she journeyed to London to take the throne.

"Massive problems." That's how the BBC described the snowstorm that brought most of England to a grinding halt. Reports of spinouts and jackknifed tractor trailers peppered the news as commuters along the M11 (one of England's busiest motorways) found themselves spending the night in their cars. All of it was caused by an inch or two of snow ... something a few snow plows and a little road salt could have solved. But, we are in England.

Since it is the responsibility of each County Council (or gub'ment) to pay for such things and this part of Britain sees snow so infrequently, why bother? In any case, Britain is a bastion of personal liberty, so if you want to drive along a narrow unplowed road and skid into a hedgerow or oncoming traffic that's your bloody right. We stayed home.

Still, what a welcome relief after alternate days of 'windy and rainy' or 'cold and rainy'. The green out beyond our house became the scene of a massive (there's that word again!) snowball fight as the neighborhood shook its winter doldrums. As Garrison Keillor noted, we cannot impose our own ambitious agenda on winter. Alas! Winter was gone within two days, and where a snowman once stood in the back the primroses are now squirting out. Dear little Land!

As I look back over a year of 'Yanks', I am aware of a hole in my narrative. Our move here meant adjustment to not one foreign culture, but two -- England and the US Air Force. I never wrote about that. There were reasons. My stint as a martial arts teacher at Picatinny Arsenal dampened some of the shock of the changes made by coming over. Americans in uniform aren't as exotic as the English; certainly their accents aren't. Plus, there was (and is) a war going on. I felt I should be cautious in my remarks. But for once, I will indulge.

Our military, I've found, is very egalitarian. Male or female, black, brown or white, you are useless unless you can listen, think, and act. Military life is highly structured, yet constantly in flux. Any given day may bring a new assignment. Often, it is dangerous and far from home. It is a fact that affects Judy's clients. It is a fact that affects Chris's friends.

US military bases pour millions of dollars into the British local economy annually. It is no surprise the British government reluctantly supports the US while naming differences. Without American dollars, Great Britain might have to cozy up to the European Union ... an economic and political move that would leave them with the short stick.

On a typical day we drive to the base gate and meet a young person in BDUs - battle dress uniform - carrying a loaded weapon. They would check our i.d. while a nearby machine gun crew in a Hummer keeps their eyes trained on each passing vehicle. Driving though the base the car may be spot searched by more armed guards ... not that we fit some profile, but for fear someone may have sneaked a bomb under our car while we weren't looking.

Our ears have deadened (somewhat) to the roar of F-15Es passing overhead. If it's 16:00 (4pm, folks), we'll stand still while a trumpet sounds 'Retreat' over the p.a. system followed by the two national anthems. If her commanding officer enters the office, Judy stands. It's just the way things are done. It's part of being in the 'family'.

Sometimes it is draining. Judy's contract with the military does not entitle us to the same services we might enjoy if we were on active duty or back in the States. Some of these services (particularly for Chris's schooling) we could really use. We are constantly aware of our status as citizens of an unpopular country, so we do our best to be good ambassadors. Complaints of US policy are common and bashing Americans is a popular sport for a younger generation that grudgingly acknowledges the support the US gave Britain during the last century.

Any mention of life on base easily slides into a discussion on foreign policy, doesn't it? Even though the people who implement foreign policy are little different from those who complain about it. No matter - the people who comprise the military will carry out their orders at whatever cost to themselves and those they love. Let us pray it will always be for a good and valiant cause.